In early April, Kolkata-based cocktail bar AMPM organised a Spring Tea Trail aimed at showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the Himalayan region around North Bengal and crafting a foraging experience to curate a cocktail event at 4,800 ft above sea level. The team, along with a few guests, had the opportunity to visit the Glenburn Tea Estate in Darjeeling, where, under the able guidance of the Bacardi team, they learnt the art of infusing gin with various herbs, spices, and tea to create unique and flavourful cocktails. Back home in Kolkata, the bar launched a menu with four cocktails inspired by the trip.
Tea can add complexity to a cocktail in a way that only a few other ingredients can. From green, oolong, and black tea to chai and other blends, these cocktails use myriad styles to delicious effect. While the AMPM menu uses Bombay Sapphire gin infused with Darjeeling second flush, green tea, and strawberry black tea (all from the Glenburn Tea Estate), bars across the country are using various teas—from delicate floral notes to robust herbal flavours—to create an unforgettable journey in the art of infusions and mixology.
So, if, like the Mad Hatter in Alice in Wonderland, you believe that “it’s always tea time,” these cocktails are meant just for you. Take, for example, the Highland Tea cocktail at Lupa in Bengaluru, which mixes Earl Grey Tea with whisky. “Whisky makes the pairing come alive for the more complex undertones of tea. Bitterness and astringency are counterbalanced with an acid and a hint of sweetness, making both flavours harmoniously sing,” says chef Manu Chandra, Founder of Lupa. “I’ve always found the flavour profiles in tea fascinating; they add depth, character, and a balancing act to modern cocktails,” he adds.
The conceptualisation of tea-based cocktails likely evolved from a blend of historical influences and contemporary creativity. Tea was commonly used in punches and other mixed drinks during the 18-19th centuries. As cocktail culture developed over time, bartenders began incorporating tea into contemporary recipes. “As people became more health-conscious, there was a growing demand for lighter and more natural drink options. Tea became a popular choice among those seeking beverages that were both flavourful and healthy, making tea-based cocktails a popular and trendy option in bars worldwide,” says Surendra Singh, Beverage Manager, Raffles Udaipur. The hotel’s famous Writers Bar is known for its signature Raffles Blend, a black autumn tea from the Manjhee Valley estate. This tea is infused with marigold, rose petals, vetiver, lemongrass, Himalayan tulsi, and cardamom. The Raffles Chai-Tini mixes this blend with gin to offer a refreshing drink.
It’s no secret that Indians love their chai. So, is it only natural that it has found its way into cocktails? “I think our eternal love for chai actually caused a delay in our understanding of tea in general. The overboiled swill of a concoction made with tea dust and milk that we call chai was so ubiquitous that we didn’t explore this delicate plant for all that it could offer for the longest time,” says Buland Shukla, Founder of For the Record (FTR), a cocktail bar in Panjim, Goa. FTR serves a cocktail called Silver Tips, made with white tea, smoked lemons, pineapple, and vodka. Shukla feels that easy access to so many different varieties and processes has opened a whole Pandora’s box of flavour development for mixologists.
Take, for example, Lady in Charge, a cocktail served at the InterContinental Marine Drive in Mumbai. This slow-sipping cocktail, made with jasmine green tea and gin, is popular with women who eat lunch at the L&S Bistro there.
Mixologists also have to understand the flavour profiles of different teas to determine what works best with a particular alcohol. “When we went to the Makaibari Tea Estate in Darjeeling, we found that the Autumn Flush blend of that season was the best choice for us, as it could perfectly match the flavours of gin,” says Subhobrata Majumder, Bar Manager of Olterra. This Kolkata-based bar’s cocktail menu showcases distinct ingredients from various parts of Bengal.
Agrees chef-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal, Co-founder of New Delhi-based cocktail bar Khi Khi: “Tea is a very versatile ingredient. From the variety of tea being used to the amount you use to the time taken to infuse or brew, there are so many variables. That’s where it becomes tricky; one needs to know his or her tea so that it can be effectively incorporated into a cocktail. An Assam versus a Darjeeling in the same cocktail will give completely different results.” For a promotional menu, he introduced a chamomile and gin cocktail called Tea Punch.
New Delhi’s Sidecar, an artisanal cocktail bar that secured the 26th spot on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2022 list, serves a cocktail called Tea Leaf, which is a take on the classic cocktail Penicillin. It is made with smoked pinewood tea from Anandini and Jim Beam White. “The smoked pinewood tea brings the whole drink together, just like the peaty Islay scotch that rounds off a classic Penicillin,” says Minakshi Singh, Co-founder of Sidecar. “We Indians love our tea, and to harness that love and transform it into a cocktail is a no-brainer. Tea has always been an intrinsic part of who we are and how we create our menus. It’s about showcasing various flavours of India,” she adds.
Banking on the same love, the Lalit Group of Hotels has recently launched a cocktail called Kadak Chai, which is a mix of vodka and masala chai, at its Indian restaurant Baluchi across all its hotels.
Little wonder; after all, chai fuels the largest population in India, and who says it can’t be spiked?
@smitabw