Summery sips

Summer is heating up. Need a way to quench your thirst?

Luckily, L.A. is at the center of a drinks revolution: Everywhere you look, someone is putting a fresh new spin on sips, from new school takes on coffee-based drinks to others that take cues from Indigenous roots. It’s a perfect time for those looking to expand their horizons — without alcohol.

So grab your favorite reusable straw and join us!

Boba drinks (and more) at Hey Hey

At Hey Hey, Chris Kwok’s pan-Asian boba and coffee shop, the drinks are as gorgeous as their flavors, with a menu that reflects multiple influences. Starting with Hong Kong, where Kwok’s family is from, there’s the Union ($6.50), a mix of black tea and cold brew coffee. It’s inspired by a classic Hong Kong-style drink called Yuen Yeung and is added to salted black sesame cream and boba.

Then there’s a Taiwanese influence, with drink toppings such as boba and other flavored jellies like lychee, and milk and fruit teas, where fresh fruit is mixed in. And Vietnam also gets a nod. Hey Hey was recommended by How To LA host Brian De Los Santos, and his favorite drink is the Cafe Seda ($6), inspired by the traditional Vietnamese iced coffee drink made with sweetened condensed milk.

On the bolder side, we tried the Hey Hey ($7), made with black milk tea added to their house cream, warm boba, and… get ready for it… flan. The flan serves as the drink’s base, which provides a layer of sweet texture, not to mention depth, making it a standout.

Looking for even more sweetness? Try the Strike ($7). Kwok modeled the drink after Starbucks’ Frappuccino. His version amps the sugar to the nth degree with a combination of a hazelnut cocoa spread (similar to Nutella) mixed with espresso.

After one sip of the thick, sweet drink, I felt I was reliving my version of that scene from The Simpsons where Bart and Milhouse overdose on sugar, prompting them to “Go crazy Broadway style.” While no musical numbers were performed on my day at Hey Hey, I was taken by the sheer creative effort of Strike and the rest of the drinks consumed that day.

Hey Hey in Cantonese means “double happiness,” which is exactly what you’ll experience at the cafe founded by Chris Kwok on Sunset Boulevard in Echo Park. The cafe specializes in cool and inventive beverages, not to mention exquisite vibes.

Tepache and pulque at Mirate

Tepache is a fermented beverage popular in Mexico. It is made with the rind of pineapple and piloncillo, an unrefined sugar cane. It’s also become popular in the United States, where cans are sold in places like 7-11 and in restaurants such as Mirate.

Tepache’s origins go back to the pre-Columbian-era, during the time of the Aztecs. Its name comes from a word in Nahuatl (Mexico’s Aztec language), meaning “drink made from corn,” as that’s what it was originally made from.

The beverage director at Mirate is Max Reis, whom I liken to the mad scientist of L.A.’s beverage world. (I covered Mirate earlier this year when I wrote about the release of their canned cocktail, Tu Compa, their take on the Paloma cocktail.)

The tepache ($6) at Mirate is a zero-waste product made from pineapple rinds fermented with piloncillo and toasted spices, including canela (Mexican cinnamon), star anise, and clove.

The tepache-making process at Mirate differs from the way the beverage is typically made in Mexico. But, Ries and his team still aim to honor its traditions. The tepache does carry a trace amount of alcohol. However, it’s very low, around 0.5–2% percentage-wise, similar to another beverage Ries serves at Mirate, pulque ($8).

Pulque is made from the fermented agave plant (also known as a maguey in Mexico), similar to tequila and mezcal, whose roots also extend back to the Mesoamerican period. It’s known for its cloudy milk-like color, and is a viscous liquid with a slight amount of foam on top, coming from the sap of the agave plant. Its taste contains notes of yeast and a sour flavoring. At Mirate, Reis started serving his pulque via a nitro draft, similar to cold brew coffee or some stout beers such as Guinness. Reis removes the oxygen via the nitro tap, which slows the shelf life, and accentuates the creaminess, removing some of the viscosity.

Mírate dining room creates the feeling of being inside and outside at the same time

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Matt Egan

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Courtesy of Mírate

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While customers can enjoy tepache and pulque alone, Reis mainly uses them as a base for various cocktails. He also recommends them to diners pre- and post-meal to cleanse the palette and for probiotic qualities to promote gut health and assist with digestion.

The tepache at Mirate offers a rich mouthfeel and almost briny flavoring, even with the toasted spice notes that bring a bright, fresh taste. The pulque has a smoother, lighter consistency with the slightest bit of acidity.

Kava drinks at Kavahana

Heading to the shores of Santa Monica, you’ll discover an oasis that’s a little different from most bars and coffee shops: Kavahana, Los Angeles’s first kava nectar bar.

I only recently heard of kava, a beverage made from the kava plant’s roots. (This is different from the Spanish sparkling wine known as cava.) The non-alcoholic beverage from the kava plant is only grown in the Pacific Islands, specifically from the volcanic island of Vanuatu. It is cold-pressed and then dried to make a powder, which is later mixed with water and turned into a beverage.

Kava nectar can be bitter in its original form, leaving a tingly taste on your tongue. But it’s known for its kavalactones, advertised to bring about euphoria and relaxation.

Hannah Wilen and partner Neil Bhatia started Kavahana to create an alternative social space that wasn’t dependent on alcohol or caffeine. Willen herself began drinking kava nectar years ago as a way to help her with anxiety and as an alternative to alcohol.

The Kavahana space features low lighting and a subdued island motif with a Gen Z aesthetic. Customers can also head to the adjoining patio space outback to play board games. Regular weekly programming consists of open mics, stand-up comedy, and karaoke.

The beverage menu is meant to demystify and entice anyone interested in trying kava nectar-based drinks for the first time. Wilen and Bhatia advise ordering a double or triple shot with all the drinks at Kavahana, to experience the full effect of the drinks’ relaxing properties.

Patrons relax while sipping Kava nectar-based beverages at Kavahana Bar in Santa Monica.

I tried the Beach Nectar ($13), made with kava nectar and blue spirulina (a dietary supplement from blue-green algae), mixed with house coconut foam and vanilla — think creamy cereal milk that leaves a tingle similar to a Sichuan peppercorn. I followed it with the Golden Lemon Nectar ($13), made with kava nectar, turmeric, fresh lemon juice, and sparkling water. It was effervescent and refreshing.

After a few sips, I felt a sense of calmness fall over me, almost as if I were being wrapped up tightly in my favorite blanket.